Trending: Best Places to Buy Ammo Online and [Buyer's Guide] 7 Best AR-15s Happy Veteran’s Day! All of us at Pew Pew Tactical would like to thank all of our veterans and active duty military for their service. Today, we are especially thankful for your service and your sacrifice. Now, this probably isn’t a shock to anyone, but veterans are kind of a big deal in the firearms community as a whole. Every year, many retailers and manufacturers in our industry like to treat veterans, and in some cases non-veterans, to some pretty awesome special deals on guns, ammo, and accessories. We rounded up some of the best deals out there and listed them below. We’ll also be updating daily through November 11, 2019. Aero Precision Aero Precision has some of the best AR-15 Uppers and Lowers , and AR-10 stuff around. They also have some badass builder sets right now! PLUS 10% off SITEWIDE ! Aero Veterans Day Builder Sets: Thunderbolt I and Thunderbolt II Brownells Brownells doesn’t have a set sales event this time, but these coupon codes are still good: VB5 – Free Shipping over $49 MDX – $10 off $99 + Free Shipping NCS – $15 off $150 + Free Shipping M8Y – $20 off $200 + Free Shipping One recent deal of the day is the SB Tactical SBA3 pistol brace for $99 after code “MDX.” SBA3 Pistol Brace Check out our full review of the Best AR-15 and AK Pistol Braces . Cabela’s Two sales going on right now! Holiday Kickoff Sale AND A Legendary Salute Military Appreciation Sale! Available to Veterans only , 10% off sitewide excluding firearms & ammo, 5% off firearms & ammo! For the hunter in your family, the Garmin eTrex 20x GPS handheld is a great gift to make sure they are able to find their truck at the end of the trip! CrossBreed Holsters Select Reckoning holsters, mag carriers, belts, and more on sale right now at Crossbreed for up to 40% off! Crossbreed Holsters with G17, G19, G26 Check out more of our favorites in Best Concealed Carry Holsters . Primary Arms Huge sale across a wide range of items. Gas blocks, tubes, uppers, lowers, bipods, and so so much more at Primary Arms . ***24-Hours Only*** Law Tactical AR Folding Stock Adapter for $210!! Primary Arms Flash Sale – $210! Grab a CMC Drop-in trigger for $130 (normally $170)! Optics Planet Also not a Veteran’s Day event, Optics Planet does have their Christmas sales started…in November… Still, great deals on a wide range of stuff from scopes to bags and more! Wise Company No Christmas or Veterans day sales yet, but Wise Company is having flash sales that have some awesome savings! wise food bucket Guns.Com Nothing massive, but Free Shipping Sitewide today only is still a savings! Take a look at their used guns especially, there are some major deals to be found in there! And our review of the entire process. Beretta 390 Shotgun from Guns.com And for some other good deals, check out their Warehouse Clearances . Bunch of random guns that become an even better deal with today’s free shipping. LWRCI 15% off SITEWIDE ! This is one of their best sales of the year, don’t miss out! Check out our LWRCI Review also ! AR500 Armor Black November! Sitewide sale for 16.21% off , use coupon code “ GIVETHANKS “! We’ve reviewed the armor plates and the carriers before and really like them, take a full look at all of the armor blasting goodness! Faxon Firearms For Veterans and current duty of the armed forces only, Faxon has 25% Off all Parts and Accessories and 15% Off Rifles and Pistols ! Faxon really knows how to say “Thank you”. We’re huge fans of their barrels, both AR-15 and Glock . Now is the time to buy if you’re a Vet! Palmetto State Armory They don’t have a specific Veterans Day Sale section (yet) but they’ve brought back their awesome EOTech 512 deal . Three EOTechs: 512 is the left Although it’s about $20 off from the lowest we’ve ever seen…it’s still crazy to get EOTech’s most popular model for $329 after rebate. Normal is See our hands-on review of the most popular EOTech’s here . There’s also more deals at PSA but they are more of the ordinary variety. It seems a lot of manufacturers are waiting for Black Friday & Cyber Monday. Remember that most of these deals are good for several more days, and some are good all the way to Black Friday, so be sure to check them out if you’re looking for a good deal. Thanks again to all our Veterans, and may God bless.
There are some really great reasons to use a tree stand during a hunt, but not all stands are designed for the same situations. I am going to cover the basic types and their best placement and location. These devices are great because they give you a view from 15 to 30 feet off the ground. The elevation also provides the hunter some scent protection, as well as a clearer shooting path. In some cases like bear hunting , that is a great place to be when your 600lb bruin comes ambling into range. I’m going to do an article next week on a few different kinds I have tried along with the pros and cons. Before I get into the different types, let’s cover why you would choose to hunt from a stand. As some readers know, I grew up hunting in Oregon but now live in North Carolina. There is a stark difference in Eastern and Western hunting strategies. Using a stand out West is not going to be easy if you are a public land hunter, but I have an awesome solution for you, so “hang” in there. I know spot and stalk is the preferred and more respected strategy, but a stand does not make that impossible. Using one in the Eastern US is much more reliable, as the deer have predictable trails that they use frequently, often daily. I had no less than a group of five bucks bedding in a very concealed but sunny patch fifty yards behind my house this fall. I thought there was one rack I could see, but all of a sudden a few forks and a big wide 10 point went flying down the hill towards the creek while I stood there with my mouth ajar. Basically, the higher you are, the harder it is for your scent to become prominent in an area you are hunting. You still want to hunt the wind, but your particles aren’t going to be layering the forest floor in the same density as if you were in one spot on the ground. Thermals are key here too. In the morning you will always have better scent control in a stand. When the thermals rise with the dawn, your scent is pushed up and out of the woods. This is why a forest smells cleaner in the morning than the afternoon. In the afternoon, the air is getting colder and pushing particles to the ground. So if you are in a tree stand in the evening, your scent is being driven underneath you, and wherever the wind is headed. Scent control is a divisive topic with people on both sides. Some say it’s a waste of money, others say it’s the difference between a big buck and a mediocre buck. I say that anytime a deer gets a whiff of you, less is better, even if it’s 10% less. A big mossy horn that’s five years or older is going to agree with me – he does not want to smell you in even the smallest quantities once he knows season is open. One thing most hunters should know about deer is the time they choose to move. It may be their intelligence or it may be instinct, but deer movement coincides with thermal changes. This means in the evening the wind will often seem perfect, then right at dusk thermals will drop your scent and the wind will switch directions. It’s good to know what is common in the spot you place your stand. In early fall there is a huge difference when looking around from 20 feet up as opposed to being stuck in the foliage. Even if this doesn’t increase the distance of your shot, it increases the preparation time you have when game approaches. If you can see a rack headed your way ten minutes sooner than you would on the ground, I’d say that’s better for heart rate, trigger prep, warming your finger, and so on. When you elevate yourself beyond the range of any of their natural predators, you are off their radar almost completely. I have video from my stands with does and bucks oblivious to my presence, even though they are eating leaves two feet from my tree. A buddy of mine had a 6 point decide to take a nap under his at 10am one morning. Neither of them had a clue until he looked down to check the time and there was a buck at his trunk, eyes closed, feeling nice and safe. As I just mentioned, deer will likely never know you were there if you decide to use the right stand in the right place. One of the best places is a few yards off of a main trail or creek crossing. Another good spot is a funnel where they are forced to pick a specific route because of water, terrain or man-made obstacles. These are areas where any of the old does or bucks would bust you on the ground. They may still wind you and bust you depending on thermals, but they won’t see you if you picked a good spot. Due to this proximity, 80% of my bow shots from a tree stand occur at 15 to 35 yards. That’s close, and with a bow that’s right where you want to be for total confidence. I’m also given the sight advantage as I watch and listen for my game to finish its run and expire. Half of my deer I shot in 2014 fell within sight of me, and this wouldn’t have been true if I were on the ground. Sound is a bad thing while hunting, but when you are in a stand it seems that you can make a few more errors. The first buck I missed this fall was during bow season. I had gotten to my ladder stand about thirty minutes later than planned. The sky was even a little orange, which is not good if you are climbing up a metal stand. No morning did it sound more metallic than this one. I was in a race with the sunrise and moving quickly I scuffed my toe twice, clang, clang. Then I smacked my hip pack into the rest coming over the top. I pulled up my bow and it hit the ladder with a clatter. I recall saying out loud, “I might as well call it a day at this rate.” Of course I wasn’t getting down during the pre-rut, and I had seen visible activity the last few days. Granted, pre-rut is a large reason this story even happened. Well two minutes after I settled in, along comes a dandy six point buck, but only about two and a half years old. He was intent on getting somewhere, and moving from my left to my right at a good clip. He had to have heard me, half the county heard me get into my stand that morning. I’m surprised no one texted me “Hey thanks, keep spookin’ em my way.” He stopped twice and looked all around with his head low. Eventually he walked right into a little shooting lane I had cut and stood there for me, as still as a 3D target. Shaken from a classless entry and a buck two minutes after settling in, I lost the ability to compose myself. I shot and missed under his belly, but he just stood there, looked around, and slowly walked into the thicket before I could reload. I have shot my 30.06, dropped a buck, and then filled my second tag ten minutes later. They just don’t know you are there in a stand. Now that we covered why someone would use a stand to improve their odds of dropping some meat, let’s look at the three main types used today. The name says it all. You get into this stand via a ladder that attaches to an upper platform with a seat and shooting rest. The ladder is usually three feet from the tree with the top platform strapped and anchored to the trunk. They are a lot of work to put up, and not something you are going to want to take down very often. Usually two people are needed to attach this to a tree. That said, these are the most comfortable of the stands. They are solid, have a platform with ample room, and are easy to get in and out of. Even though they are easy, ladder stands cause the highest number of falls, and it’s right as you head over the very top so be careful up there. This is a great choice for a fixed location you will hunt repeatedly. They are well-suited for private property, and some can remain up for two years before being taken down for maintenance. Some of them are designed for two people, and make a great father-son or husband-wife opportunity. I have mine placed mid-slope, above a creek, with a funnel the deer travel through. This stand has dropped seven deer in the last two years, so good placement can make these lethal. Lock-Ons consist of several parts, and there are many options for ascent. These are great for spots you know will produce later in the year, but will set up ahead of time or the day before. They are notorious for getting people into wonky trees with good cover from hanging on a large old trunk. The stand itself is a chair with a foot platform, several straps to secure it to the tree, and cleats to dig into the bark. Most hunters will install screw-steps, or strap on climbing sticks as they go up the tree. These are the most versatile when it comes to tree selection, there are few locations you can’t affix these to. It involves a few steps and then pulling the stand up behind you and hanging it on the tree. This is the part that bugs me, I don’t like hanging there messing with stuff twenty or thirty feet off the ground. Your best bet is to get a pulley to make it easy to bring up. These are my least favorite, but others will use nothing else, and you can put them on just about any tree. The Lock-On stands offer hunters a lot of options and a lot of brands. Some are open or with rests, some are just a simple perch, and others are flamboyant affairs with cup holders. I’ll wait for the heated seat version myself. This is my go-to stand. It is light, packable, simple, and quick. This is the one for the public land hunter. A climbing stand is strapped to the base of the tree using a seat portion and separate bottom foot rest. You then climb the tree like a utility lineman. No ladders, sticks or other footholds needed, just two pieces that pack easily on your back. Once attached, you slip your feet into the bottom platform, and sit on the top portion while facing the tree. On the top and bottom pieces, there are straps that go around the tree at an angle, and a cleat below that to dig into the tree on your side. Picture a logger climbing a pole with foot cleats and a leather hip strap and you have the idea. Then you raise the top, sit on a bar, raise the bottom, then raise the top again. Repeat until you are about twenty feet up a tree. Here is a video for the lone-wolf climber that I use. This is the Ferrari of tree stands in my humble opinion. My preferred method is to walk until I find what I think is thick buck sign, and set-up right then and there, coming back the next morning if needed. I can walk miles with one on my back and hang it in any part of the woods in a flash. I do not need to take the time a ladder stand or lock-on requires in setting up the footings. When I get to the top of my tree, I simply turn around and sit down. I don’t have to secure anything else regarding the stand, I’m already in it. And for someone with a bit of vertigo, this actually feels safer to me than the lock-on. It always comes down to getting off the rungs and into the seat with those and the ladder stands. When people start to come off the ladders or climbing sticks, they increase the odds of a fall. The downside to these is tree choice. They are confined to a specific diameter, but it’s usually adequate. They are only used on relatively straight, branchless trees. If you don’t have many of those, this is not the stand for you. It’s not that you can’t find that tree where you hunt. It’s how far it is, or how much cover it’s in that can make it perfect for the stand, but not the deer you’re targeting. I admit that as much as I love these, I have cursed them for not being able to get me in the “perfect tree”. A lock-on typically solves that, but I can’t stand lugging the equipment around for those, much less the set-up process. I’m sure if I practiced I’d be fast, but that’s my point. I have enough hunting skills to practice. The climbing stands get me in close enough without taking much effort. Contents Scent Control Visual Advantage Proximity Sound Ladder Stands Lock-On Stands Climbing Stands
Ebola is not over. As it becomes more clear that Ebola is firmly a worldwide problem, there may have been unintentional exposure to hundreds of people outside of the hot zone. To be prepared, you should have a few things on hand that will keep you safer than without them. Ebola is a serial killer and will take every possible opportunity to kill those who come to help. But like any war, we have weapons too, and they are in the strategic categories of identification, defense, attack, and containment. There is also an amount of practicality on this list. It contains nothing that costs more than a few dollars. Everyone should have these materials on hand since unintentional exposure is always accidental. Therefore your planning time is now, and you will likely be on your own if this goes downhill fast. Finally, do not take this list as anywhere near adequate to work with an Ebola-infected patient. Instead this list is designed to reduce your chance of exposure in public, and to make a last-ditch effort to prevent further spread should Ebola hit close to home. More elaborate barrier methods including disposable Tyvek suits and full-face respirators will certainly better your odds, but only if you have them, replace them often, and have enough of them to outfit your family or community. Quick Navigation The Shopping List Get Ready "The Shopping List" Bleach : Chlorinated water has been proven an effective disinfectant for Ebola. For best results mix 1:10, or one part bleach to ten parts water (not the one to nine as is often written). So a one-gallon bottle of household bleach (i.e. Clorox ) will provide eleven gallons of disinfectant. Only mix as needed since the diluted bleach loses its strength over a day or two depending on temperature and air exposure. And paradoxically, diluted bleach is a better disinfectant than concentrated bleach, so more is not necessarily better. And keep the area or thing to be disinfected moist with the bleach solution for minutes rather than seconds. At least 10 minutes if you can. Gloves : The professionals use heavier, thicker gloves, but that is because they are intentionally entering an Ebola theater. Your prevention needs will be served fine with Nitrile or latex exam gloves . They should fit snugly and be replaced often. To remove the gloves, pinch the glove at the wrist with one gloved hand and then pull the glove off the hand turning it inside out. For the other hand, slide your bare thumb under the other glove at the wrist and pull off the glove without touching its outside surface. Of course you should soak your gloved hands in the bleach solution prior to removal, and rinse your bare hands again afterwards. And since the exam gloves are like giant rubber bands, watch out for flying material as the gloves are stretched and removed. Masks : There are three main mucous membrane areas on the human face; the mouth , nose and eyes and all are like wide open doors into your body. Particle masks with a minimum rating of N-95 can offer reasonable light protection from Ebola. While an N-100 mask is arguably better, the fit and ability to change the mask often is more important unless you plan on deliberately entering an Ebola facility. Plus N-100s cost much, much more than N-95s so they probably won’t be changed as often as they should be. Eye Wear: With the mouth and nose covered, the eyes need some help. Eye wear or a transparent face mask does two main things. First, it keeps unintentional Ebola virus from reaching your eyes when virus-contaminated liquid droplets splash, squirt, spray, or projectile in your direction from another person or source. The second thing is that eye wear helps to keep your own fingers out of your own eyes. It is easy and habitual to touch your own face, so in many ways the mask and eye wear protect you from yourself. You don’t need anything fancy unless deliberately encountering Ebola, good shop glasses or lab goggles are fairly effective. Even prescription glasses or sunglasses are better than nothing, but like wood chips or metal flakes flying around the tool shop, the virus can hit you from the side, bottom or top landing right in your eye. Then its game over. Alcohol : The CDC has found that the Ebola virus can be killed by many common disinfectant agents. They also advise using waterless alcohol disinfectants that are popular these days. Keep in mind three things: 1) Disinfectants are only helpful if used, so having them is not the same as regularly using them. 2) Soap, running water and vigorous scrubbing is more effective so consider the alcohol only a stopgap measure until a proper washing can take place. And 3) Many other fluids contain alcohol, bleach, hydrogen peroxide, or acetic acid (vinegar). Just remember that Ebola, while not a particularly durable virus that will die within a day without a host, does put up a fight so using something like using methyl alcohol gasoline additives ( Heet , etc.) as disinfectants will require more time than if a bleach solution was used. And be careful because garage or kitchen decontamination solutions may dissolve other plastic barriers or gloves as well as acting like solvents providing the virus a faster pathway through membranes and even skin. Also Read: Ebola Understanding And Preparing For An Outbreak Duct Tape : Plastic tape and duct tape will provide an effective barrier if sealed tightly. Disinfection procedures should be followed both before and after the removal of the duct tape because the tape can provide protection to the virus in first-round of decon if it gets trapped between layers or behind corners. Plastic Sheeting : Whether drop cloth , ground cloth, or plastic tarp, you can use the material for many last ditch efforts to isolate an area of your home, and make impromptu body bags . Use the duct tape to secure the sheeting for isolation, and notice the direction of airflow with the goal to vent contaminated areas to the outside. Even though Ebola is not airborne like the flu, it does easily catch rides on other materials as they are moved about. Gasoline or Diesel : Gas is not just for your bug out vehicle , but also for incinerating ebola-infected materials and bodies. While Ebola will die just fine in a few hours to 24 hours (but give it 48 hours just to be sure) if the Ebola is contained in a fluid that came from an infected person, it remains biologically hot for much longer. Incineration is an effective way to kill Ebola, and everything else for that matter. Just don’t do anything stupid while moving the hazardous items to your burn pit. Thermometer : An elevated human body temperature is one of the first objective symptoms of an Ebola infection. Therefore the humble thermometer should be used often and effectively to locate those who might be infected within your family, group, or community. The time for concern is when the body temperature reaches 100.4 degrees F or 38 degrees C. And remember that a clean bill of health should only be assigned when a person is exposure-free and symptom-free for a full three weeks. Paper Towels : You will need to use something to wipe down and dry off surfaces and body parts. Paper towels are a better solution since linens require management and storage until properly washed. Paper towels can be burned quickly, buried or sealed in plastic bags. Plastic Garbage Bags : If hazmat materials cannot be burned immediately, or are made of plastic, you will need to contain them. Everything on this list will need to be disposed of properly or burned. High quality, thick trash bags are a realistic solution to the problem of storage and disposal of potentially contaminated materials. This is not the time to buy the cheap ones. Don’t overload the bags , or drag them causing holes in the plastic. And don’t just toss them outside since wandering animals of both the wild and formally domestic variety may consider your Hot Zone a free lunch. Note, however, that the CDC has never received a report of a dog with Ebola. Also Read: 6 Ways To Prepare Ebola Get Ready The above list is incomplete and inconclusive . It is not a substitute for proper knowledge and common sense. This list is, however, designed to provide you with basic supplies on hand that will make a difference. Good luck. Further reading on the subject should include the military manual on decontamination, and CDC’s flyer on Ebola: Decontamination of Vehicles Used To Transport Ebola Patients ( Click Here ) CDC – What You Need To Know About Ebola ( Click Here ) Photos By: Army Medicine CDC Global Other interesting articles: 69 Things You Should Stock but Probably Aren’t in 2020 41 Essential Items For Sheltering in Place How to Buy a Gun Case Survival Gear Review: 5.11 Tactical Hard Case
I have an almost AR15 in the parts bin. I’m sure many readers do too. After a few years of building and upgrading AR15s you will likely have a bin full of parts that you might consider sub par or outdated. When you realize that you almost have a “bonus” gun in the parts bin… then it may signal the time to build up a new rifle. I have a spare parts rifle sitting in the box right now. It needs a buffer tube assembly, a barrel, a bolt carrier, hand-guards, and a barrel. The rest of the parts are all sitting in the bottom of my parts bin. My number one goal in any AR15 I own is to ensure the rifle is reliable. Ensuring AR15 Reliability: Magazines and Ammunition One of the biggest weaknesses of the AR15 lies in the magazine. Mark your magazines with numbers to identify which magazines give you frequent reliability issues. Once identified to be unreliable, throw them away. Old magazines may have feed-lips that have spread too much, or a weak spring that cannot push the rounds up fast enough for the bolt to push the rounds up the feed-ramps. Avoid gun-show magazines unless they are brand spanking new. Aluminum GI magazines with a Magpul follower new in package are DIRT CHEAP. Stick with brands like NHMTG or OKAY industries. Go for brand new in wrap Magpul magazines. Go for quality LANCER magazines. There are a few other magazines that are reliable, and a few that are absolute crap. Do your research. The ammo you stuff into the magazine makes a big difference as well. Take a look at this video from www.LuckyGunner.com… it is very telling. Learn more at LuckyGunner.com Summary? Shoot good ammo, buy good mags, and your overall reliability will improve. Bolt Assembly and Buffer The bolt assembly is the next component needed to ensure reliability. All things considered, the bolt carrier and bolt are the primary players in making sure your rifle goes bang every time you pull the trigger. It is important to buy a bolt assembly that has been tested with the proper quality measures in place. High pressure tested, shot peened, and magnetic particle inspection are the main points to look for to make sure you’re getting a bolt that passes quality control from the factory. Common issues with the bolt stem from poor gas seal to the gas rings, or a gas key that has started to come loose and leak. Ensure that the bolts gas rings have a good seal by pulling your bolt out, pulling the bolt forward to a unlocked position, and place it bolt down on a flat surface. If the bolt stands up you have a good gas ring seal. If the bolt carrier locks / cams down over the bolt, replace the gas rings. If the replacement gas rings are still not tight, your bolt carrier is overbored and needs to be ditched. If your gas key is loose, it will wobble under your fingers. Tighten the bolts down and ensure it is staked in place. Any gas leaks are likely to cause failures to feed due to the bolt being unable to completely move to the rear of the buffer tube. Gas leaks cause a loss of energy to the bolt carrier group. Without that gas to push the carrier rear-ward the gun will choke and short-stroke. Barrel and Gas Port Size The barrel and gas port is the final piece of the pie. If you are building up a parts bin rifle, you don’t always want to spend $400 dollars on a Noveske barrel. The most important specifications to me are the presence of a properly sized gas port, and a quality 5.56 or “Wylde” chrome lined chamber and bore. Gas port size and placement on a barrel will help or hinder reliability. The quality of the barrel steel is a selling point as well… but comparing 4140 steel vs 4150 steel is really a moot point when you are building a beater. I appreciate a longer barrel life of a 4150 barrel as much as anyone, but in reality how many of us have ever burnt up a barrel? At that point you would have spent thousands of dollars on ammunition and the cost of a new barrel would be a drop in the bucket. If you see a 4140 barrel for a great price, snap it up. The gas port is something most AR owners never think of. Having it properly sized gives the rifle enough gas to operate smoothly with the appropriate bolt carrier velocity. Certain AR15 configurations can increase wear and tear on your rifle, particularly the bolt itself. What we want is the lowest permissible gas pressure delivered in the appropriate volume to send the bolt carrier fully to the rear. We do not want an over-gassed gun with a large volume of high pressure gas. This will lead to excessive carrier velocity and bolt wear especially if you are building a over-gassed carbine based gun. A 16 inch barrel with a carbine length gas system will deliver a large volume of high pressure gas. Furthermore as the gas port erodes from use, the system will be even more over-gassed then when you first started. An over-gassed gun may be reliable, but keep a spare bolt handy to swap it out should stress cracks become visible. How to tell? When buying a barrel, it is important to study a manufacturers reputation. Most manufacturers don’t advertise gas port size and thus some research on your part will be required. If the manufacturer has a reputation for quality work then most likely you will receive what you pay for… a quality mil-spec barrel. When budget barrel shopping… do your research . Wrapping Up: So when building a parts gun, ensure that the bolt carrier group, barrel, and magazines are of good quality. Each of the above systems depend on the other to ensure reliability. Having things out of balance can increase wear and tear, or in general decrease reliability and weapon durability. If you have something wrong with your AR15 it will likely be related to one of the topics above. My parts kit build will be receiving good magazines, a quality bolt carrier group, and a chrome lined barrel with the right gas port size and placement. If you have a partial gun sitting in the parts box, take your time and build it slowly and smart. It will be reliable and won’t break the budget. Share: Google Twitter Facebook Pinterest Reddit More Tumblr LinkedIn Pocket Email Print
The 4 Best Savage Axis Upgrades — Accessories & Mods Review 2020 Photo by Jun Wang / CC BY The Savage Axis series of rifles are great firearms for the money. The rifle is chambered in a variety of powerful rounds so any accessories need to be able to withstand the recoil. The accessories also need to actually add something to the rifle, and need to improve on the rifle’s few shortcomings. Lastly, the accessories shouldn’t weigh the rifle down, and every ounce should be there for a reason. The Savage Axis has a few faults, and luckily accessories can fill these gaps. Below are our recommendations for the 4 best Savage Axis upgrades and our reasons for their selection. Blackhawk Sportster Bipod BLACKHAWK Sportster Adjustable Bipod, Pivot and Traverse, 9" - 13" Price: $66.49 Price as of 08/14/2020 11:02 PDT (more info) Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product. Blackhawk, or BLACKHAWK!, if you go by their trademark has produced hundreds of different pieces of gear for rifles, tactical gear, boots, backpacks, and of course bipods. Blackhawk bipods present user with a quality option for your Savage Axis, without paying a small fortune. The product combines the best features of hunting and tactical bipods to deliver what they define as a Sportster bipod. The Sportster has a number of attractive features that work well when combined with the Savage Axis, including an affordable price tag. The overall benefits of a bipod are a more stable shooting position anywhere you can carry your weapon. The bipod can adjust the length of each leg independently, meaning it can easily be used across uneven ground. The bipod legs adjust from 6 inches to 9 inches in total. A major consideration for your Savage rifle is the fact the bipod doesn’t require a Picatinny mount. The Blackhawk bipod attaches to the swing swivel and locks down tight once it’s attached. The bipod is made entirely from high quality, aircraft grade aluminum, and attaches with ease. The bipod folds up and out of the way when it’s not needed. The bipod is also nice and light, keeping the weapon balanced for offhand shooting. The Blackhawk Sportster bipod is one of the best Savage Axis upgrades you can buy. BLACKHAWK! Sportster 6-9" Pivot Bipod: Review and Unboxing Watch this video on YouTube